A trip to Big Bend National Park in West Texas brought back a flood of memories for my husband, Dale, and me. Nearly thirty years had passed since our last visit, and Dale was eager to test his photography skills after decades of honing his craft. I found myself reflecting on my younger self, eager to see what had changed and to experience the park from a new, more mature perspective.

Our adventure began at the historic Gage Hotel in Marathon, just outside the park. With a population of 386, the town remained much as we remembered. The hotel, with its 1927 charm, welcomed us back, and our King Room felt comfortably familiar. Marathon had seen some new additions—a few art galleries, new restaurants, and a grocery store—but its essence remained unchanged, catering to the tourists en route to Big Bend.

The next morning, we set off early to tackle the Grapevine Hills-Balanced Rock Trail, checking in later at the park’s Chisos Mountains Lodge. This trail had eluded us on our first trip due to the challenging dirt road leading to it, which our 1991 Toyota Celica couldn’t handle. This time, our 2022 4-Runner was up to the task. We braved the rugged Grapevine Hills Road and arrived at the trailhead, ready for our first wild hike in years.

Initially, the trail was manageable—a gentle uphill walk through the desert. However, the last quarter mile transformed into a steep, rocky ascent, testing our endurance and navigational skills. The trail was indistinguishable from the surrounding terrain, and we questioned if we’d lost our way. Despite the challenges, we pressed on, using trekking poles and our experience to guide us.

Reaching the summit, we were rewarded with the stunning sight of balanced rocks against the winter sun. We captured numerous photos and reveled in the vastness of the Grapevine Hills, their rocky clusters resembling grape bunches. The descent proved even more treacherous, but yoga and caution helped us navigate the slippery boulders safely.

Back on the main trail, we felt a mix of relief and realization. Our nostalgic return highlighted our changed abilities, but also underscored our wisdom in recognizing these changes. After adjusting our itinerary to avoid more strenuous hikes, we enjoyed a fulfilling trip, capturing beautiful photos of the Milky Way and exploring the nearby ghost town of Terlingua.

Our return to Big Bend wasn’t just a journey through familiar landscapes, but a journey through time, marking the changes in both the park and ourselves.