Beyond the Summit:
India unveiled

14 OCTOBER, 2024
I recently made international headlines for being rescued in the Himalayas — but this is not that story.
WORDS AND PHOTOS
BY FAY MANNERS
Much to my dismay, I recently made international headlines for being rescued 3 days after losing all my equipment, left with only my climbing-wear during extreme weather on Chaukhamba III in the Himalayas - but this is not that story.

No, this is a story about the beauty, rich culture, breathtaking landscapes and an unexpected sense of safety in India.

Michelle Dvorak and I found something extraordinary in what felt like a rapidly changing country; the bustling energy of Delhi, the serene tranquillity of the mountains, the warmth of the people, and the incredible food which all contributed to an unforgettable journey that deserves to be shared.

The cacophony of Delhi assaults the senses the moment you step off the plane. The city is a living, breathing entity, pulsating with life at every turn. The constant blare of car horns, the chatter of street vendors, and the sheer volume of people navigating the crowded streets create an atmosphere that is both exhilarating and overwhelming. Delhi, with its labyrinthine alleys and vibrant markets, epitomises the organised chaos that is quintessentially Indian. It's a city that never sleeps, where modernity and tradition coexist in a delicate balance.
However, just beyond this urban sprawl lies a world that is strikingly different—a world of serene mountains and tranquil lakes, where the air is crisp and the silence profound. As we left the bustling city behind, the transition was almost surreal. The noise and pollution gives way to the pristine beauty of the Himalayas, a majestic range that has captivated adventurers and spiritual seekers for centuries.

Our journey to India was destined to a remote part of the Himalayan mountains, our objective: Chaukhamba III. At our basecamp, by a tranquil lake, we encountered a group of deeply religious people who had been spending months in silent prayer and meditation. Their devotion was palpable, their serene faces reflecting an inner peace that is rare in the frenetic pace of modern life. It was a serenity in stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of Delhi, where time seemed to stand still. A reminder of the diverse and multifaceted nature of India.

Mountaineering in India is not just about conquering peaks; it is a journey of self-discovery and spiritual awakening.

As we ventured further into the mountains from our basecamp during our initial acclimatisation, we found the landscape becoming increasingly dramatic. Towering peaks loomed above us, their snow-capped summits piercing the clear blue sky. The terrain was rugged and unforgiving, a stark reminder of nature's raw power. Yet, there was a profound sense of solitude and peace. In these remote parts of India, it was easy to forget the chaos of the cities and lose oneself in the awe-inspiring beauty of the natural world.

India is a land of paradoxes and, while I don’t want to get into politics, one of the most striking is its approach to women's rights. Despite being a country with deep-rooted traditions, India is remarkably progressive in its support for women. The current female president is a testament to the strides the nation has made in gender equality. Everywhere we went, we found people who were not just supportive but actively championing women's rights. This is why, as two girls travelling around India, we felt incredibly safe and welcomed. The country's respect for women and the active measures taken to ensure their safety and empowerment made our journey not only enjoyable but also inspiring.
Michelle and I only experienced a small part of India on this trip, but would both visit there again in a heartbeat. As two women travelling alone, we felt a sense of security, the warm hospitality we experienced was a testament to India's commitment to creating a supportive environment for all travellers, regardless of gender.

A story that particularly resonated with us was that of Draupadi from the Indian epic Mahabharata. Draupadi, who had five husbands, is often seen as a symbol of female empowerment and strength. The tale underscores a profound respect for women, highlighting their importance and revered status in Indian society. It is a narrative that challenges the conventional norms and celebrates the multifaceted roles that women play.

Throughout our time in India, we were struck by the warmth and hospitality of the people. From the moment we arrived, we were welcomed with open arms and treated with an unparalleled generosity. Strangers went out of their way to make us feel at home, offering us insights into their culture and traditions. This sense of community and kindness is one of the many reasons why India leaves such a lasting impression on its visitors. Our travel agent invited us into his home where we stayed for many days after our rescue from the mountain; he and all his family cooked for us, bought us presents and gave us as much of their time as possible to ensure we were comfortable. And then there was the food—an explosion of flavours that left our taste buds tingling. Indian cuisine is defined by the country's love for spices and its rich culinary heritage. We savoured pakoras, crispy fritters that were a perfect blend of spices and texture. The lentil dal, a staple in Indian households, was a comforting bowl of goodness, rich,  flavourful and homely. The Dohda, a sweet treat made from milk and sugar, was the perfect end to our meals. Each dish was a celebration of the vibrant and diverse flavours that characterise Indian cooking.

Mountaineering in India is not just about conquering peaks; it is a journey of self-discovery and spiritual awakening. The mountains, with their ancient wisdom and timeless beauty, have a way of putting life into perspective. They remind us of our place in the grand scheme of things, of the fleeting nature of our existence. 

Our trip to India was a journey of contrasts—from the chaotic energy of Delhi to the serene tranquillity of the Himalayas. It was an exploration of a country that is as diverse as it is ancient, a land where tradition and modernity coexist in harmony.  But more than anything, it was the people who made our journey unforgettable. Their warmth, kindness, and hospitality left an indelible mark on our hearts. India, with its rich tapestry of cultures, stories, and landscapes, is a place that will continue to inspire and captivate those who seek adventure and enlightenment.

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